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Cartier: the art of watchmaking

July 21, 2015

Since a few years, Cartier wishes to recall that in addition to being jeweller, it is also a real watch brand... In this spirit, Cartier back in detail on the various watchmaking professions (calibre, components, dials, crafts, etc.) that the brand of the Richemont control group - internal - to perfection...

At Cartier, the time dream, appears, disappears, is transformed, matter wholly. A time hypnotic, pretext to incredible watch creations. Miracle? Magic? Cartier hours turning countdown appearances, sometimes mysterious, sometimes fabulous. The surprise question: where is located the mechanism? By what sleight Tower can they turn? Where hides the time? Ring or watch? The answer is in the question, hidden beyond the technical prowess, creative genius, the desire to introduce the illusion or duplication in the magnetic field of watchmaking.

The story begins in 1888, with the mention in the books of accounts Cartier the first wristwatches. At the same time appears a large number of watches and pocket watches chatelaines. It continues in 1912 with the creation first mysterious clocks, "miracles of watchmaking" according to the Gazette of the Swiss replica watches fashionable who marvel at these clocks whose needles seem to float through the Crystal of rock unconnected to the movement. It continues today through two watch collections, the mysterious to the fabulous, allegories of a time when forms panic, unpredictable when, watch, jewelry becomes brooch, mysterious when the whirlwind of the Rotonde de Cartier Watch escapement appears in full transparency, weightless on the dial.

Challenging jeweller and watchmaker both technique depends on complexity, both unsolicited trades, 150 in total, require know-how, the Goldsmith to the enameller, the stone to the watchmaker, the engraver to the jeweler. A string of artisans, linked by excellence, that command at the opening of a turtle whose shell stones protects the time, one that gets a Phoenix serrated diamonds that he swings to the rhythm of the beats of a watch.

Nothing seems impossible, as to imagine clocks mysterious starry of inventiveness, two watch UFOs inlaid obsidian and agate, which renew the kind, perpetuate the fascinating attraction of an enigmatic time Cartier has the secret.

Each year, the Cartier Manufacture develops new complications for its watches. The design of a movement of Haute Horlogerie is the fruit of a long, complex and demanding job that relies on know-how associated with high technology. Entrusted to designers in watchmaking, the focus of a movement to complications requires years of development and involves numerous specialists and dozens of different trades.

Design and manufacture of Haute Horlogerie Cartier movement is the result of a double requirement: an absolute mastery of the technique and the perception of just elegance. Everything begins with an idea, whose designers sketch the profile in broad strokes by a freehand drawing that lays the groundwork for a mechanical which finishes already appear as a watermark.

Beginnings in flat areas of the movement, these designs above the design in three dimensions of each piece, which watchmakers validate the feasibility. This preliminary step to the achievement of an oversized mock-up to test the functionality of the movement. Therefore, prototypes are made and tested before be approved.

Watchmaking watches of shape, the Cartier House manufactures its ice-cream. This privilege, which leaves a great freedom to its creators, implies a controlled know-how which allows ice according to various and complex drawings, designed to integrate with enclosures as specific as those of Crash, barrel or Tank Americaine watches. For each ice, the work is Manual: the glass is curved torch, with a temperature of 600 ° C to obtain the curve perfect; the form control is at the discretion of the eye of an expert craftsman who evaluates the result based on the reflections appearing in the glass. The contours of the ice are polished by hand to smooth the edges, soften the edges for finally being able to fit into the housing.

The decoration at the hand of Haute Horlogerie movements sublime watches and makes them unique. Before Assembly, every component of the movement is decorated by an artisan who uses, in addition to specific tools, ancient techniques. Directly visible or hidden, the decoration of components constitutes Replica Hublot watches, by its precision, a feat in itself. In the realm of the infinitely small, the bridges are the burnisher angles, sides are stretched while the Polish of the angles has been altered, the faces of some components have a "mirror" effect A job that requires sometimes up to 15 hours for a single component.

In the case of watches skeleton, architecture in miniature, the delicacy and complexity of the finishes don't support any approximation. Designed to let see transparently the beauty and complexity of their movement, they reveal the art of the master Decorator.

Watchmaking watches are the exclusive domain of the most experienced watchmakers: indeed, the Assembly of a movement to complications requires a perfect knowledge of the function of each of the components. During long training for ten years, they have acquired a unique experience, allowing them to control all stages of Assembly and the setting of a watch complications. The workings, rubies, exhaust, screw and bridges are assembled according to an orchestration very precise, to ensure the perfect market of the movement.

Infinitely small and thin, the needles must be handled with extreme care and seek delicacy and dexterity. On account of many forms of hands, among them the so-called forms sword, Apple, diamond, or even hammer. Cut using ultra-precise presses, needles are hand-picked one by one before moving on to the oven to 340 ° C to obtain the expensive Steel Blued, color at the Cartier home. Vague on time or the cooking temperature and the color is to redo...

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